What "straightforward to get" means for credit cards
An straightforward-to-get credit card is one that approves applicants with credit scores below 670 — the range where most mainstream cards start rejecting people. These cards exist because credit card companies know that people with lower scores still need to borrow, and they price the risk into higher interest rates and lower credit limits.
The catch is real: you will pay more in interest if you carry a balance, and your limit will be lower than someone with excellent credit would receive. But if you need a card now and your score is not there yet, these cards let you build payment history while you use credit.
The approval odds are higher because the issuer has already decided to lend to your credit tier. You are not fighting the algorithm — you are in the pool the card was designed for.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit that becomes your credit limit, and most issuers will convert you to an unsecured card after 12 to 18 months of on-time payments.
- Unsecured cards for lower scores charge higher interest rates (typically 24% to 36% APR) but do not require a deposit.
- Subprime cards often come with annual fees ($35 to $99), so factor that into whether the card makes sense for your situation.
- The process itself does not hurt your credit score, but a hard inquiry (which most issuers do) drops your score by a few points temporarily.
- Approval decisions usually come within minutes to a few hours, and you can start using the card within days of set up.
Secured cards: deposit-backed credit building
A secured credit card requires you to put cash into a savings account held by the card issuer. That deposit becomes your credit limit — deposit $500, get a $500 limit. You then use the card like any other card, and the issuer reports your payments to the three credit bureaus.
The deposit stays in the account untouched. You are not paying the card with it; you are using it as collateral so the issuer knows they can recover their money if you stop paying. After 12 to 18 months of on-time payments, most issuers will convert the card to an unsecured card, return your deposit, and raise your limit based on your payment history.
Secured cards typically charge no annual fee or a small one ($25 to $50), making them cheaper than unsecured subprime cards over time. The interest rate is still higher than mainstream cards (usually 18% to 24% APR), but lower than unsecured subprime options. If you can afford to lock up a deposit, this is usually the faster path to rebuilding.
Unsecured subprime cards: no deposit required
An unsecured card for lower credit scores works like a regular credit card — no deposit, no collateral. The issuer is taking the risk that you will pay them back based only on your credit history and income. They price that risk into the terms.
Expect an APR between 24% and 36%, and annual fees between $35 and $99. Some cards charge both. A few charge monthly fees on top of that. Read the fee schedule before you explore, because a $99 annual fee on a $300 limit card is a bad deal no matter how straightforward the approval is.
The upside is speed: you do not need to save up a deposit, and approval can come within hours. The downside is cost — if you carry a balance, you will pay significant interest. These cards work best if you can pay the full statement balance every month, which means you are using the card to build history, not to borrow.
How to compare cards in this category
Do not compare these cards the way you would compare premium cards. The interest rate matters less than the annual fee if you plan to pay in full each month. The credit limit matters less than whether the issuer reports to all three bureaus — if they only report to one, your credit file stays incomplete.
Use this table to track what each card offers:
| Card Type | Deposit Required | Typical APR | Annual Fee | Conversion Timeline |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Secured | Yes ($300–$2,500) | 18%–24% | $0–$50 | 12–18 months |
| Unsecured Subprime | No | 24%–36% | $35–$99 | N/A |
Check whether the issuer reports to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. If they only report to one bureau, your credit file at the other two stays thin, and lenders will not see your payment history. Most major issuers report to all three, but some smaller ones do not.
The process and approval process
The process is online or by phone and takes 10 to 15 minutes. You will need your Social Security number, current income, and employment status. The issuer will run a hard inquiry on your credit report, which temporarily lowers your score by a few points (usually 5 to 10 points). That dip recovers within a few months.
Approval decisions come within minutes to a few hours. Some issuers give you a decision on the spot; others send an email or call within 24 hours. If you are approved, the card ships within 5 to 10 business days, and you can set up it online or by phone as soon as it arrives.
If you are denied, ask why. The issuer must tell you the reason — usually a score below their minimum, too many recent inquiries, or a history of missed payments. You can reapply after 30 to 90 days if you have improved your situation (paid down debt, resolved a dispute), but multiple applications in a short window hurt your score more.
Using the card to actually build credit
Getting the card is not the goal — building a better credit history is. That means paying on time, every time, and keeping your balance low relative to your limit.
Payment history is 35% of your credit score, so a single missed payment can drop your score 100 points or more. Set up automatic payments for at least the minimum due, or better yet, the full balance. A missed payment stays on your report for seven years.
Credit utilization (how much of your limit you use) is 30% of your score. If your limit is $300 and you carry a $200 balance, you are using 67% of your limit — high enough to hurt your score. Keep your balance below 30% of your limit if you can. This is another reason to pay in full each month: it keeps your utilization at 0% when the issuer reports to the bureaus.
When to move to a better card
After 6 to 12 months of on-time payments, your score will start to improve. Once it reaches 670 or higher, you become may be able to access for mainstream cards with lower rates and no annual fees. At that point, you can explore for a better card and close the subprime card (or keep it open with a zero balance to maintain your credit history length).
If you have a secured card, the issuer may convert it automatically. If not, call and ask. Conversion is not may provide — it depends on your payment history and the issuer's policies — but most issuers will do it after 18 months of perfect payments.
Do not stay in a high-fee card longer than you have to. Once your score improves, the cost of keeping the card outweighs the benefit of the history it provides.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will explore for one of these cards hurt my credit score?
The process itself does not hurt your score, but the hard inquiry the issuer runs does — usually by 5 to 10 points. That dip is temporary and recovers within a few months. Multiple applications in a short window (within 14 days) count as one inquiry for credit-scoring purposes, so if you are shopping around, do it quickly.
Can I use a secured card if I do not have $500 to deposit?
Yes. Most secured card issuers let you deposit as little as $200 to $300. Some allow deposits up to $2,500 if you want a higher limit. Deposit what you can afford to lock up for 12 to 18 months.
What happens if I miss a payment on one of these cards?
A missed payment is reported to the credit bureaus and stays on your report for seven years. It will drop your score significantly and make it much harder to get approved for other credit. If you miss a payment, contact the issuer when ready — some will waive the late fee if you pay within 30 days, and the sooner you catch up, the less damage to your score.
Do I have to carry a balance to build credit?
No. You build credit by using the card and paying it on time, not by paying interest. In fact, paying in full each month is better for your score because it keeps your utilization low. The issuer still reports your payment history to the bureaus.
How long does it take to improve my credit score with one of these cards?
You should see movement within 3 to 6 months of on-time payments, especially if you keep your balance low. Larger improvements take longer — reaching 670 or higher usually takes 12 to 18 months of consistent, on-time payments. The speed depends on how low your score is to start and what else is on your report.