What "easiest to get" actually means
An "easiest" credit card is one that approves people with credit scores below 670 — the range where most mainstream cards decline you. These cards exist because card companies know that people rebuilding credit still need to borrow, and they price the risk accordingly: higher interest rates, lower credit limits, and annual fees are how they offset the chance you might not pay back what you charge.
The easiest cards to get are secured cards, store cards, and cards specifically designed for people with limited or damaged credit history. Secured cards require a cash deposit that becomes your credit limit. Store cards (like Target or Amazon) often have looser approval standards than bank cards. Cards marketed as "bad credit" cards typically approve people with scores in the 500–650 range, though approval is never may provide.
Getting approved does not mean the card is right for you. A card that approves you easily might have a $35 annual fee, a 24% interest rate, and a $300 limit — which means you pay $35 a year just to have it, and carrying a balance costs you real money. The goal is not approval; it is approval on terms you can actually use without digging yourself deeper.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit (usually $200–$2,500) that acts as your credit limit, and they approve people with scores as low as 500.
- Store cards and gas station cards often have lower approval standards than bank cards, though they only work at that retailer or network.
- Cards marketed for bad credit typically charge annual fees between $25–$99 and interest rates between 18%–28%, so compare the total cost before you explore.
- Approval odds improve if you have a checking account with the card issuer, a co-signer, or a recent on-time payment history, even if your score is low.
Secured cards: the most reliable path
A secured credit card is the easiest card to get if your score is below 600 or you have no credit history at all. You deposit cash with the card company — typically $200 to $2,500 — and that deposit becomes your credit limit. You then use the card like any other card, paying a monthly bill. The deposit stays in a separate account and is not touched unless you stop paying.
Secured cards approve people with scores as low as 500 because the card company already has your money. They are not taking a risk on you; they are taking a risk that you will pay the monthly bill. The catch is the annual fee: most secured cards charge $25–$99 per year, and some charge interest on the deposit itself (though this is less common now).
The real value of a secured card is that it reports to all three credit bureaus — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — every month you pay on time. After 6–18 months of on-time payments, many secured card companies automatically convert your account to an unsecured card and return your deposit. That deposit return is not may provide, so read the terms before you open the account.
Examples include the Capital One Secured Mastercard, the Discover it Secured Card, and the U.S. Bank Altitude Go Visa Secured Card. Each has different deposit minimums, annual fees, and conversion timelines, so compare them before you choose.
Store cards and gas station cards
Store cards — issued by retailers like Target, Walmart, Amazon, or Kohl's — often approve people with lower scores because they benefit when you shop there. A store card does not work everywhere; it only works at that retailer or its partner stores. But that limitation is also why approval is easier: the company controls where you spend and can set lower limits ($300–$500) to manage risk.
Gas station cards work the same way. A Shell or Chevron card approves people with scores in the 600–650 range because the company knows you will use it at their pumps. These cards usually have no annual fee and no deposit requirement, which makes them genuinely easier to get than a secured card.
The downside is that store and gas cards do not help you build a general credit profile. A Target card reports to the credit bureaus, so it does help your score, but it only works at Target. If you need a card for everyday use — groceries, gas, online shopping — a store card leaves you short. Many people get a store card first, then add a secured card or a bad-credit bank card for broader use.
Bad-credit bank cards: higher cost, wider use
Cards marketed as "bad credit" or "rebuild your credit" cards are issued by banks and work everywhere Visa or Mastercard is accepted. They approve people with scores between 500–650 and do not require a deposit. The tradeoff is cost: annual fees range from $25–$99, and interest rates typically run 18%–28%.
A $500 limit with a $99 annual fee and a 24% APR means you pay $99 just to have the card, and if you carry a $300 balance for a month, you pay an additional $6 in interest. That same $300 balance on a secured card with no annual fee and a 20% APR costs you only $5 in interest. The annual fee is the hidden cost that makes bad-credit cards expensive.
Bad-credit cards do report to all three bureaus, so they help your score the same way a secured card does. The question is whether the annual fee is worth it for you. If you plan to use the card for small purchases and pay the balance in full each month, the annual fee is the only cost, and it might be acceptable. If you expect to carry a balance, the combination of annual fee plus interest makes the card expensive.
Examples include the Credit One Bank Visa, the Milestone Mastercard, and the OpenSky Secured Visa. Read the terms carefully: some of these cards have additional fees for late payments, over-limit charges, or customer service calls.
How to improve your approval odds
Even among straightforward-to-get cards, approval is not automatic. A few steps can move you from a decline to an approval, or from a $300 limit to a $500 limit.
If you have a checking account with a bank, explore for their credit card first. Banks see your checking history — how long you have held the account, whether you overdraft, whether you keep a balance — and use that as a signal of reliability. A person with a two-year checking history and no overdrafts looks less risky than a stranger with the same credit score.
If your score is very low (below 550), a co-signer can help. A co-signer is someone with better credit who agrees to pay the bill if you do not. Not all straightforward-to-get cards accept co-signers, so check the terms. A co-signer does not need to put up money; they are just legally responsible if you default.
If you have any recent on-time payments — even one month of paying a utility bill, a phone bill, or a small loan on time — mention it in the process. Some card companies ask for this information, and recent positive payment history can outweigh an old low score.
What to do after you get approved
Approval is the beginning, not the end. The card only helps your credit if you use it the right way.
Make a small purchase each month — a tank of gas, a coffee, a subscription — and pay the full balance when the bill arrives. This shows the card company you can borrow and repay reliably. Carrying a balance to "build credit faster" is a myth; you build credit just as fast by paying in full, and you pay zero interest instead of 20%.
Keep the card open even after your score improves and you get approved for better cards. Closing old accounts hurts your score because it reduces the total credit available to you. The goal is to have multiple cards with low balances and a long history of on-time payments.
After 6–12 months of on-time payments, check your credit score. If it has risen 50–100 points, you may now may have access to for a mainstream card with no annual fee and a lower interest rate. explore for that card, get approved, and then you can retire the expensive card — but keep the account open.
Comparing your options side by side
| Card Type | Deposit Required | Typical Approval Score | Annual Fee | Works Everywhere |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Secured card | $200–$2,500 | 500+ | $25–$99 | Yes (Visa/Mastercard) |
| Store card | None | 600+ | Usually $0 | No (one retailer) |
| Gas card | None | 600+ | Usually $0 | No (one network) |
| Bad-credit bank card | None | 550+ | $25–$99 | Yes (Visa/Mastercard) |
Frequently Asked Questions
Will explore for a card hurt my credit score?
Yes, but only slightly and only temporarily. Each process triggers a hard inquiry, which lowers your score by a few points for about three months. Multiple applications in a short time (within two weeks) usually count as one inquiry, so if you are comparing cards, explore within a narrow window. One process is worth the small dip if it gets you a card that helps you rebuild.
What if I get declined for a secured card?
Secured cards almost never decline people, but if you are declined, the reason is usually that you have unpaid collections or a recent bankruptcy. Call the card company and ask why. If it is a collections issue, paying the collection in full may allow you to reapply. If it is a bankruptcy, you typically need to wait 12–24 months after the discharge date before most secured cards will approve you.
Can I use a secured card to build credit if I already have other cards?
Yes. A secured card helps your score by adding another account with on-time payments. If you already have a store card or a bad-credit card, adding a secured card gives you more credit accounts and a longer payment history, both of which improve your score. The more cards reporting on-time payments, the faster your score rises.
How long does it take to convert a secured card to unsecured?
Most secured cards convert after 6–18 months of on-time payments, but the timeline varies by card company. Some cards convert automatically; others require you to request conversion. Check your card's terms before you open it so you know what to expect. When conversion happens, your deposit is returned to you, usually within 5–10 business days.
Should I get a secured card or a bad-credit card?
If you have $200–$500 available to deposit, a secured card is usually the better choice because the deposit gives the card company confidence, which often means lower interest rates and easier conversion to unsecured status. If you do not have money to deposit, a bad-credit bank card or a store card is your path forward. A store card costs nothing and approves easily, but only works at one retailer, so many people get both.