Fraud happens when someone uses your credit card number, expiration date, or account information to make purchases or open new accounts in your name without your permission.
The moment you notice unauthorized charges, contact your card issuer's fraud department — the phone number is on the back of your card. Most issuers will freeze your account when ready and send you a new card within 5 to 10 business days. You are not responsible for fraudulent charges under federal law, though you may have a small liability depending on when you report it and your card's terms.
The difference between fraud and identity theft matters for what happens next. Fraud is someone using your existing card or card number. Identity theft is someone opening new accounts in your name using your Social Security number or personal information. Both require reporting, but identity theft involves more steps and takes longer to resolve.
Key Takeaways
- Call your card issuer's fraud line when ready when you spot unauthorized charges — most issuers reverse fraudulent transactions within 24 to 48 hours.
- You have no liability for fraudulent charges under the Fair Credit Billing Act, even if you wait to report them, though reporting within 60 days protects you completely.
- Request a new card number and ask the issuer to send you a written fraud dispute form, which you must return within 60 days of the statement showing the charge.
- If the fraud involved your personal information rather than just your card number, file a report with the Federal Trade Commission at IdentityTheft.gov to create an official record.
- Monitor your credit reports from Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion for accounts you did not open, which signals identity theft rather than card fraud alone.
How to Report Fraud to Your Card Issuer
Call the number on the back of your card and ask for the fraud department. Have your card and a recent statement in front of you. The representative will ask you to confirm which charges are yours and which are not. They will when ready cancel your card and issue a replacement, usually with a new card number.
Ask the issuer to mail you a written dispute form. You must return this form within 60 days of the statement date that shows the fraudulent charge. The form protects you by creating a paper trail and ensures the issuer investigates within the required timeframe. Do not rely on a phone call alone, even if the representative says the charge will be reversed.
Keep records of every call: the date, time, representative's name, and what was discussed. Take screenshots of unauthorized transactions in your online account. These details matter if the issuer later claims you did not report the fraud or if you need to dispute the charge again.
Your Legal Protection Against Fraudulent Charges
The Fair Credit Billing Act limits your liability for unauthorized credit card charges to $50, and most card issuers waive even that amount. This protection applies whether you reported the fraud when ready or weeks later. The law requires the issuer to investigate your dispute and remove the charge from your account if they cannot prove you authorized it.
Your liability changes only if someone stole your physical card and you did not report it within a specific timeframe — usually 60 days. Even then, most issuers' terms cap your loss at $50. Debit cards have different rules and higher liability, which is why credit cards are safer for fraud protection.
The issuer must complete their investigation within two billing cycles, or about 45 days. During that time, the charge stays on your statement but marked as disputed. You do not have to pay the disputed amount while they investigate. If the issuer finds the charge was fraudulent, they remove it and send you a written explanation.
The Difference Between Card Fraud and Identity Theft
Card fraud means someone used your card number or account information to make purchases. Identity theft means someone used your personal information — your name, Social Security number, address, or date of birth — to open new accounts or take out loans in your name. The two often happen together, but they require different reporting steps.
If you see charges on your existing card that you did not make, that is card fraud. Report it to your issuer as described above. If you discover accounts you never opened, credit inquiries you did not authorize, or bills arriving for accounts in your name, that is identity theft. You need to report both to your issuer and to the Federal Trade Commission.
Identity theft is harder to catch and takes longer to resolve because the fraudster may have opened multiple accounts across different companies. You may not notice for months or years. Card fraud is usually caught within days because you review your statement or receive a notification.
Filing a Report With the Federal Trade Commission
Go to IdentityTheft.gov, the official government site for identity theft reports. Answer questions about what happened, what accounts were opened, and what information was compromised. The site generates a personalized recovery plan and an Identity Theft Report, which is a legal document you can use with creditors and credit bureaus.
You do not need to file an FTC report for card fraud alone — your issuer's dispute process is enough. File an FTC report if someone opened new accounts in your name, took out loans, or used your Social Security number. The report creates an official record that helps you prove you are a victim if creditors later try to collect on fraudulent accounts.
After you file, the FTC sends you a confirmation number and a copy of your report. Keep this number and the report itself. You will need them when you contact credit bureaus, creditors, and banks to dispute accounts you did not open.
Checking Your Credit Reports for Unauthorized Accounts
Request your credit reports from all three bureaus — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — at AnnualCreditReport.com, the only free official source. You are may have access to to one free report from each bureau per year. Review each report for accounts you do not recognize, credit inquiries you did not authorize, and personal information that is wrong.
If you find unauthorized accounts, dispute them with the bureau that reported them. Write to the bureau's dispute department (the address is on your report) and include a copy of your FTC Identity Theft Report. The bureau must investigate within 30 days and remove the account if they cannot verify it is yours. Send your dispute by certified mail so you have proof of delivery.
Place a fraud alert on your credit file by contacting one of the three bureaus — they are required to notify the other two. A fraud alert tells creditors to contact you before opening new accounts in your name. The alert lasts one year and is free. If you believe you are at high risk, you can request a credit freeze, which prevents anyone from opening accounts using your credit file.
Protecting Yourself From Future Fraud
Monitor your statements weekly, not just monthly. Most card issuers offer free alerts that notify you of charges over a certain amount or any charge in a specific category. Set up these alerts in your online account. The sooner you spot fraud, the faster you can report it.
Never share your card number, expiration date, or CVV over email, text, or phone unless you initiated the contact and you recognize the company. Legitimate companies never ask for this information unsolicited. Shred documents with your card number or account information before throwing them away.
Use a credit card rather than a debit card for online purchases and in unfamiliar stores. Credit cards have stronger fraud protection and do not drain your bank account while the dispute is being investigated. If your card number is compromised, the issuer sends you a new one; your bank account stays intact.
What Happens if the Issuer Denies Your Dispute
If your issuer denies your fraud dispute, ask for a written explanation of why they believe the charge was authorized. Review it carefully — they may have found evidence you did not know about, or they may have made an error. If you believe they are wrong, you can dispute the decision.
Send a written response to the issuer's dispute department within 10 days, explaining why you disagree. Include copies of any evidence: your FTC Identity Theft Report, police report if you filed one, statements showing you were not in the location where the charge occurred, or proof that you reported the card lost or stolen before the charge was made.
If the issuer still refuses to reverse the charge, you can file a complaint with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB) at ConsumerFinance.gov. The CFPB investigates complaints against banks and card issuers. This does not may provide the charge will be reversed, but it creates a record and may pressure the issuer to reconsider.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to get my money back after I report fraud?
Most issuers reverse fraudulent charges within 24 to 48 hours of your call. The charge may stay on your statement marked as disputed, but you will not owe it. The issuer has up to 45 days to complete their investigation, but they usually finish much faster. Once they confirm the charge was fraudulent, the reversal is permanent.
Can I be held responsible if someone uses my card number without stealing the physical card?
No. The Fair Credit Billing Act protects you from liability for unauthorized charges made with your card number, whether the card itself was stolen or just the number. Your liability is limited to $50, and most issuers waive even that. Report the fraud to your issuer and you will not owe the charge.
What should I do if I find fraudulent charges on an old statement I already paid?
Contact your issuer when ready and explain that you paid a fraudulent charge. You have the right to dispute charges that appear on statements you already received, though the process may take longer. The issuer will investigate and refund the charge if they confirm it was fraudulent. Bring proof of your payment if you have it.
Do I need to file a police report for credit card fraud?
You do not need a police report to dispute the charge with your issuer or to file an FTC Identity Theft Report. However, if the fraud involved identity theft or if you want an official record for your records, filing a police report can help. Some police departments take reports online; others require you to visit in person. Ask your local police department what their process is.
What is the difference between a fraud alert and a credit freeze?
A fraud alert tells creditors to contact you before opening new accounts, but they can still open accounts if they cannot reach you. A credit freeze blocks access to your credit file entirely, so no one can open accounts without your permission. A fraud alert is free and lasts one year; a freeze is free in most states and lasts until you remove it. Use a freeze if you believe your personal information has been compromised.