Cards that approve applicants with lower credit scores and shorter credit histories
Credit cards marketed as easier to get approved for typically come from issuers willing to work with people who have credit scores below 670, limited credit history, or recent negative marks. These cards exist because mainstream issuers turn down applicants in those situations, not because approval is automatic — you still need income and a Social Security number, and you will still be denied if you have unpaid collections or a recent bankruptcy.
The trade-off is real: easier approval usually means higher interest rates, annual fees, and lower credit limits. A card that approves you at 620 credit score might charge 24% APR and cost $95 per year. That cost is worth it only if you plan to use the card responsibly — paying the full balance monthly, or at least not carrying a balance long enough for interest to compound.
The cards in this category fall into three types: secured cards (you deposit cash as collateral), unsecured cards for fair credit (no deposit, but higher fees and rates), and store cards (easier approval, but only usable at one retailer). Each serves a different situation.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit but have the lowest approval bar and often graduate to unsecured cards after 7–12 months of on-time payments.
- Unsecured cards for fair credit approve people with scores around 620–660 but charge annual fees of $39–$95 and APRs of 20%–26%.
- Store cards approve more applicants than bank cards but only work at one retailer and often carry APRs above 25%.
- Approval odds improve if you have a job, a bank account, and a phone number on file — issuers verify these before deciding.
- Carrying a balance on any of these cards costs more than the card itself; using it for small purchases and paying in full each month is the only way the card helps your credit without draining your wallet.
Secured cards: the easiest approval path
A secured credit card requires you to deposit money into a savings account held by the card issuer. That deposit becomes your credit limit — deposit $500, get a $500 limit. The card issuer holds the deposit as collateral, so they take almost no risk if you stop paying. This is why secured cards approve people with credit scores as low as 300 and no credit history at all.
The deposit is not a fee — you get it back when you close the card or graduate to an unsecured card. However, you do pay interest on purchases if you carry a balance, just like any other card. Some secured cards also charge annual fees of $25–$49.
The real value of a secured card is that it reports to all three credit bureaus. If you use it for small purchases and pay the full balance every month, your credit score typically rises 40–100 points within 6–12 months. After that, many issuers automatically convert your secured card to an unsecured card and return your deposit.
Common secured cards include the Capital One Secured Mastercard, the Discover it Secured Card, and the U.S. Bank Altitude Go Visa Secured Card. Each has different deposit minimums ($200–$2,500) and annual fees ($0–$49). Compare the annual fee and APR before you choose — a card with no annual fee but 26% APR costs less than one with a $49 fee and 22% APR only if you never carry a balance.
Unsecured cards for fair credit: no deposit required
If you want to avoid depositing cash, unsecured cards for fair credit are the next option. These cards approve people with credit scores around 620–660 without requiring collateral. The issuer takes the risk directly, which is why they charge higher fees and interest rates to offset defaults.
Expect annual fees of $39–$95 and APRs of 20%–26%. Some cards waive the annual fee for the first year, then charge it in year two. Read the terms carefully — a card that charges $95 annually but has no foreign transaction fee is different from one that charges $49 but adds 3% to every overseas purchase.
The Chime Credit Builder Visa Card, the OpenSky Secured Visa, and the Milestone Mastercard are examples in this category. The Chime card has no annual fee but a 24.99% APR. The OpenSky card charges $35 annually and 20.99% APR. Neither is objectively "better" — it depends on whether you plan to carry a balance or pay in full.
These cards report to all three bureaus, so they help your credit score the same way a secured card does. The difference is that you do not have cash tied up. The cost is that you pay more in fees if you use the card.
Store cards: approval is easier, but use is limited
Retail store cards — issued by Target, Walmart, Amazon, or other merchants — approve more applicants than bank cards because they only work at one store. An issuer willing to approve you for a Walmart card might turn you down for a Visa, because the Walmart card limits your ability to run up debt elsewhere.
Store cards often approve people with credit scores below 620. However, they typically charge APRs of 20%–26% and sometimes higher. Some store cards offer a discount on your first purchase (10% off, for example), which can offset the annual fee if you use the card once and then stop.
The catch is that store cards do not help your credit as much as bank cards do. Some store cards do not report to all three bureaus, or they report only if you carry a balance. Before you explore, ask the store whether the card reports to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — if it reports to only one bureau, it will not help your credit score as much.
Store cards make sense only if you already shop at that retailer regularly and plan to use the card for those purchases. If you are opening a store card just to have a card, a secured card is a better choice.
What issuers check before approving you
Even cards marketed as straightforward to get approved for will deny you if certain red flags appear. Issuers run a hard inquiry on your credit report, which temporarily lowers your score by 5–10 points. They also verify your income, usually by asking for a recent pay stub or tax return, though some cards only ask your annual income and do not verify it.
You will likely be denied if you have an active collection account, an unpaid judgment, or a bankruptcy discharged less than two years ago. Recent late payments (within the last 12 months) make approval harder but not impossible — some issuers will approve you if the late payments are older than 90 days.
You will also be denied if you have no income or no way to prove it. Self-employed people can use tax returns; students can use financial aid statements; people on disability can use benefit letters. If you have no income at all, no card issuer will approve you, regardless of how straightforward the card is supposed to be.
Having a bank account, a phone number on file, and a job all improve your odds. Issuers see these as signs you are stable and reachable. If you explore online and the issuer asks for a phone call to verify information, answer it — hanging up or not answering is often treated as a decline.
How to use an straightforward-approval card without paying more than it costs
The biggest mistake people make with these cards is carrying a balance. If you get approved for a card with 24% APR and charge $1,000, you will owe $240 in interest per year if you make only minimum payments. That interest cost will dwarf any annual fee or benefit the card offers.
The only way an straightforward-approval card helps you is if you use it for small, planned purchases and pay the full balance every month. Charge your gas or groceries, get the statement, and pay it in full before the due date. Your credit score rises because you are using credit responsibly, not because you are borrowing money.
If you cannot pay the full balance every month, do not use the card. A secured card sitting in a drawer with a $500 deposit costs you nothing. A secured card with a $500 balance and 24% APR costs you $120 per year in interest alone. The deposit is not the cost — the interest is.
Set a calendar reminder for the due date if you tend to forget. Many of these cards do not send reminders, and a single late payment can trigger a penalty APR of 29.99% or higher. One late payment also stops your credit score from rising and can get you denied for future cards.
Comparing secured cards, fair-credit cards, and store cards
| Card Type | Deposit Required | Typical Credit Score Range | Annual Fee | Typical APR | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Secured card | Yes ($200–$2,500) | 300–620 | $0–$49 | 20%–26% | Building credit from scratch or after damage |
| Unsecured fair-credit card | No | 620–660 | $39–$95 | 20%–26% | Avoiding a deposit while rebuilding credit |
| Store card | No | Below 620 (varies) | $0–$49 | 20%–29% | One-time discount at a retailer you use regularly |
Frequently Asked Questions
Will explore for one of these cards hurt my credit score?
Yes, each process triggers a hard inquiry that lowers your score by 5–10 points. The impact fades after three months. However, if you are denied, the inquiry still counts. explore only to cards you are reasonably likely to be approved for — do not explore to five cards at once hoping one approves.
Can I get approved if I have no credit history?
Yes. Secured cards approve people with no credit history because the deposit removes the issuer's risk. You will need a job or income source and a Social Security number. Some issuers also require you to be at least 18 years old and a U.S. resident.
How long does it take to graduate from a secured card to an unsecured card?
Most issuers review your account after 7–12 months of on-time payments. Some do it automatically; others require you to request the upgrade. When you graduate, your deposit is returned to your bank account, usually within 5–10 business days.
What happens if I miss a payment on one of these cards?
A single late payment (30 days past due) is reported to all three credit bureaus and stays on your report for seven years. Your APR may jump to a penalty rate of 29.99% or higher. Missing two payments in a row can result in the card being closed and sent to collections.
Is a store card worth it just for the first-purchase discount?
Only if the discount is larger than the annual fee and you will not use the card again. A 10% discount on a $100 purchase saves you $10, which is worth it if the card has no annual fee. If the card charges $39 annually, you lose money unless you use it for at least $390 in purchases per year.